Upolu - Part 1

Tutuila Island, American Samoa, en route to Upolu

     Upolu is the major island in Samoa (the country, not American Samoa).  Not the biggest, Savai'i is bigger, but quite large and has most of the population.  Upolu also has the only entity which can pass for a major city.  Apia started as a small port back in the 1800's; it's not a good port as the bay is quite shallow, but ships can go in to offload by small boat.  In time it grew and morphed by swallowing many of the surrounding villages.  Apia now contains well over half the population of Samoa.  They built a long breakwater some time ago and so it can harbor large vessels - the only place in Samoa capable of doing so.  While we were in Apia there was a French Navy destroyer, La Prairial, tied to the quay.  French sailors wandered about the city and restaurants.

La Prairial in Apia harbor

 We went to Apia last Thursday; here's our plane for the trip:

USAF C5 Galaxy transport "Memphis"

OK, just kidding.  Here's our real plane for the trip- the US Air Force transport just happened to be at the Pago Pago airport the day we flew out:

DeHaviland Twin Otter

     There were 6 passengers, an open cockpit, and a bouncy ride over the 120 or so miles of ocean.  But the views!  One is on top here. We landed in a tiny airport in Apia and took a cab to our hotel.  The rest of the day was spent in wandering the city; didn't take too long as Apia is pretty small.  It's mainly a seawall around the harbor with streets and shops about two blocks deep.  Nice in an old-world, seedy tropical way.  Here are photos of Apia:

Apia Harbor, near fish market

Sea wall to point, west end, Apia Harbor

Main street in Apia

Trees shading the walkway along the harbor

Apia Harbor, main business area, looking up to hills beyond.

Looking cross harbor to Aggie Grey's Hotel.

Bar area, main drag.  Manu Samoa is their rugby team - rugby is HUGE here.

Bus depot - Aiga buses go all over the island.

Big church (cathedral?) - no roof! Under repair.

     Look at the next picture of the monument in the center of the circle; it has a sign telling the people about daylight savings time, coming soon.  Anything strange?

Center of town, Apia

OK, trick question.  Here's a close-up:

Sign of Daylight Savings Time

     They are moving the clocks back an hour, not ahead "spring forward."  It's either (a)  the southern hemisphere, where fall is approaching, not spring; or (b) last year they tried to match time zones with New Zealand, from where many tourists come.  But they messed it up and set clocks an hour ahead, so are two hours off their goal.  Perhaps they are straightening it out this way?  Samoa time is an hour ahead of American Samoa, despite being to the west, so I think (b).

    The terrible Japan earthquake and tsunami happened our first night.  Our hotel owner called our room at 2:00 a.m. to warn us of the coming tsunami.  We took a cab up into the hills and waited it out, returning about 6:00 a.m. after the all clear.  The French ship had high-tailed it out to sea; one of their sailors took a room at our hotel - he had been on shore leave and was stranded.  La Prairial came back next day and retrieved its crew.  There was no damage as the wave was pretty small when it got here.

The Samoa Marina Hotel, Apia - our lodgings here.

       Weather damage is nothing new here.  Back in the 1800's these islands were contested by France, Great Britain, Germany and the US.  In 1890 or so a sea battle was about to break out, warships of all nations were in Apia and they were to fight over Samoa, when a cyclone destroyed almost all of them.  Pictures of the ships wrecked in the harbor are in the museums.  Afterwards, cooler heads prevailed and the islands were split up among the colonizers.  That's how the US got American Samoa.  Great Britain got Fiji and Germany got what is now Samoa.  The Germans colonized it until 1914 when New Zealand sent troops and ships (WW 1 had just started).  They managed to evade Admiral Graf Spee and the German Navy, who were later chased down by the British Navy elsewhere in the Pacific and destroyed, and took Samoa.  Of course no one bothered to consult with the Samoans about any of this. There was a long independence movement; stories abound of the rather cruel manner in which that was contained over the years, but in time Samoa became independent.

     A highlight of Apia is the home of Robert Louis Stevenson, author of Kidnapped, Treasure Island, Dr. Jeckyl and Mr. Hyde, and many other stories.  He had traveled all over the Pacific, but when he hit Samoa he loved it and stayed until his death.  Both he and his wife had money, so he was able to build a nice home up the hill from Apia, called Vailima (also now the name of the locally-brewed beer).  Not only did he and his family love Samoa, the locals really loved him as well - he had become involved in their culture and their independence movement, which he supported until his death in 1894 at only 44 years of age.  His tomb is up on top of Mt Vaea, overlooking the grounds and Apia.  His estate eventually came into the hands of the government, who expanded and finished it as the home of the head of state for many years.  Eventually it became outmoded, then heavily damaged in a cyclone.  A wealthy Mormon missionary took it over, rebuilt it, and now it is in trust as a memorial.  We went up there and took a tour, it's absolutely beautiful, cool and breezy, with views to die for.  Here are some photos:

Vailima as you approach

Stevenson's bedroom and work room; our tour guide.

Another view

Approach road, "The Road of Loving Tears"

Formal dining and reception room.

Some of the tableware, likely added later.

Exterior gardens and veranda.

Stream and pool on Vailima grounds, near home.

Jungle walkway to pool, on Vailima grounds.

     After Apia we rented a car and drove around the island.  Therein lies Part 2.  Keep your eyes peeled, faithful readers. I leave you with the famous Requiem, composed by Stevenson and inscribed on his tomb up the hill here:

                                   Under the wide and starry sky,

                         Dig the grave and let me lie,

                         Glad did I live and gladly die,

                                 And I laid me down with a will.

                         This be the verse you grave for me:

                         Here he lies where he longed to be,

                         Home is the sailor, home from sea, 

                                 And the hunter home from the hill.