Welcome!

Hello readers - thanks for viewing my blog. Especially welcome are my beautiful wife Cyndi, our two wonderful children Tom and Lisa, and my siblings Jeff, Mary and Suzy. I posted often from America Samoa while I was there a few years ago. I also post from our past and later travels. Keep checking in, and please leave a comment!

They may not be readers, but our dogs Monte and Zoey have a special page with their own photos. They are involved in many of our trips, and all of our lives.

Click on photos and videos to enlarge and (usually) see them better.

Friday, April 29, 2011

Updates (new)


To my faithful followers, postings from American Samoa have been coming fast and furious lately.  Time for a break - like Cyndi & I at lunchtime near Pago Pago Harbor, above.  Here's a quick summary of recent activity:

Some added pictures of churches (falesa) in Land of 10,000 Falesa    click here

Added photos about Leone in Love that Dirty Water   click here

Some nice videos of blowholes in action, Airport Beach Videos parts 1 & 2     click here and here

Fautasi Boat races for Flag Day in Fautasi Races    click here

Day trip to the island just offshore in Aunu'u    click here

Rick's visit to the hospital ER in What's Up, Doc?   click here

Birds of Samoa in What Came First, the Chicken or the Junglefowl?    click here

A new take on military music in US Marine Corps Band with long video links,   click here

Hiking to a (nearly) deserted beach in Massacre Bay     click here

Othello, Samoan style, and Fire Dancers     click here

A tribute to US Special Forces     click here

Return to home page     home


Thursday, April 28, 2011

Massacre Bay


     What kind of name is that for a beautiful bay and beach on this exotic tropical isle?  I'll tell you.

     In 1787 a couple French Navy ships passed by here; Samoa at the time was known as the Navigator Islands (don't know why) and few European ships or people had touched on any of them.  These ships needed water and some provisions, so they saw this bay had a nice stream and stopped.  They landed some men, and some Samoans boated out to the ships.  Well, one of the Samoan men more or less helped himself to something belonging to the ship and was caught.  To the French it was stealing; to the Samoans, it was how they lived - if you need something, it became a gift to you - they had no real concept of stealing as we understand it.  The French beat (quite possibly hanged) the Samoan and returned him to the shore.  However it happened, he died.  This aroused the Samoan anger and they sent word around to other villages.  Next day, when the French boats landed again for water, they were attacked.  Twelve French sailors were killed, as well as a number of Samoans.  The surviving French took to their ships and hustled out of there.

     About a hundred years later a French missionary pieced together the story from the oral history of the Samoans.  His work eventually led to a monument at the bay where this happened.  Since the Samoans had no written language at the time, and in any event the Europeans wrote the histories and maps, the place ever since has been labeled Massacre Bay.  The monument names the French sailors who were killed (note there are 11 names - the other guy seems to have been omitted - Samoan legend has it he got away and stayed here).  Here it is:


     Every year on the anniversary the French send a frigate out from Tahiti to visit American Samoa.  The ship goes around to the monument and conducts a memorial service there.



     A group of us hiked down there last Saturday.  Photographs this trip are courtesy of Cyndi.  We were told it was a rugged hike, but rugged isn't the right word.  Nasty, sweaty, slippery all come to mind.  The maps show an old 4-wheel drive trail down there.  It exists, but has been abandoned for years now.  It is overgrown with weeds, vines, trees, anything that you can find in a tropical jungle is now on that path.  We drove way up the mountain in the center of the island to a village named A'asufou, 1340 feet above sea level.  There we found a farm, with a field and of all things some cows - the only ones on the island, I think.  Here they are:


     The farm has interesting decorations lining its driveway:


Yup.  Bowling pins as driveway edging.
      We left the car at the farm and hiked a short way up the road until it ended.  Or seemed to end - it was overgrown with weeds.  A friendly neighbor assured us that was the path, so we plunged in.  She was right, the "path" (if you can call this thing a path) led us 2 1/2 downhill miles later to Massacre Bay.   Here's the path - did I mention it was raining for about 15 minutes and everything, I mean everything, was all wet? - these were taken going up but you will get the idea:

Trail entry.  This after 7 people came through twice.
Somewhere in there is a trail.
Me, Rick, marching uphill.
Joe, on the trail, almost hidden by jungle.
Trees across the trail.  Lots of these.
Just off the beach, trail goes between those two trees.
     Two hours later of slipping and sliding through this we finally came to Massacre Bay.  Here are some photos of this beautiful bay of sand and coral, and jungle down to the shore:

Beach looking east
Beach looking west
Up the coast to the next bay
Out to sea
Joe and Sarah cooling off
Jungle down to the shore
     We had lunch, swam, and then met the only residents here, Jim and Marie.  Jim is a retired palagi who met and married Marie his Samoan wife.  All this is her family property.  The village here (called A'asutuai or A'asu) was abandoned some 30 years ago after a cyclone, and also because there was no decent road here so the people more or less drifted away.  Jim and Marie came down here last year and started to clear out the jungle, which had taken over, in an effort to build a place for a few families to live.  They get supplies once a month or so, by boat.  Jim was happy to describe the history of the place.  Marie had grown up in this village, so she showed us where she had lived, gone to school, played, all that.  Here's some photos:

Jim and Marie, posing at the monument
They cleared this area by themselves.
The once and future center of the village
View to ocean.  Nice?
Jim explaining the history to us.
Jim & Marie's home; the only full time residents here.
Candid shot as they gave us the tour
Site of Marie's childhood home, ruined by a cyclone.
     After a few hours on the beach came the hike back up - almost two hours through the same overgrown jungle, hot & sweaty, but instead of slipping and sliding down, we were huffing and puffing up.  Eventually we all made it.  Hot showers and a glass of wine on the porch capped a tiring but wonderful day.

Mary, Ryan and Blake
Packing up to go back up the mountain.
Rainbow from our porch.  I had to show this.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

US Marine Corps Band

     This one was nearly surreal.  The Marine Corps Band was on island for Flag Day, they participate in the ceremonies.  Marches, National Anthem, right?  A bunch of straight arrows if ever there were such.  But bring these guys to Tisa's on the beach and its a whole 'nother story.

     You may recall Tisa's, that picture book bar on the beach with the glorious view?  If not, go back a few postings and refresh your memory.  Then picture a group of buzz-cut Marines playing New Orleans Jazz on the deck, with the palms swaying and the waves breaking.   Better yet, keep on scrolling and you won't have to imagine anything at all - here they are, the US Marine Corps Band, playing a jazz gig at Tisa's Barefoot Bar, Sunday April 17, 2011:
The United States Marine Corps Band
Here's Suzy taking photos
Jammin'


Marine Corp hymn, jazzed.






     We talked to some of the players during breaks, and they are as polite and decent guys as you could ever want to meet.

     Photos without sound aren't the full atmosphere, but this blog doesn't upload long video files.  I'll try a couple shorts, and see if I can get the longer ones on links to You Tube.  Come back often to check!

Recent Note:  At the request of a Marine Corps officer, these videos were removed from public viewing, a request we honoring while objecting to it.  We felt that these young Marines served their Corps well; they were excellent representatives and behaved in an exemplary manner at all times.  We believe that it is entirely possible to serve your country and also, when appropriate, provide fun and entertainment in the recruiting effort.  We respect and admire our USMC.  Semper Fi forever.

     OK, the videos may be too long to upload here but we succeeded over at You Tube.  Here's a link to their rousing "Saints Go Marching In" which includes a jazz version of the Marine Corps Hymn.  Just click on this label to bring you there:  Saints

      And once more, here they are giving you "Mercy Mercy Mercy" maybe better than The Rascal's; click on  Mercy

     Another jazz song, I don't know the name - if you do, add a comment with the name and I'll put it here and attribute to you - click on  USMC

(By the way, that's Tisa herself dancing in front of the bar!)
 
       We caught this same bunch at a local restaurant later in the evening.  There, they had a full electric rock band going, complete with guitars, brass, keyboards, and the works - playing big sound rock music.  Next day they played at some local high schools, in dress uniform.  The Marines do it all!

Sunday, April 24, 2011

What came first, the chicken or the junglefowl?

     This entry on the birds of American Samoa is offered to you, Rick's blog readers, by me, his sister Suzy.  I visited Rick and Cyndi on their island paradise for a week in April.  A bit of a background on me, I am a wildlife biologist by trade, becoming one mostly due to my interest and love of birds, which began at the tender age of 15. Since then, I tend to gear most of my vacations and trips to areas that have birds that I have not yet observed.  Ask my husband, who has been forced to accompany me on several of them (but not this one).

     When finding out my brother would be in American Samoa, coupled with the fact that American Samoa has birds that I have never seen before, I was game to go.  The thought of adding new birds to my "life list" (the number of all bird species identified throughout my life), a common goal for pretty much all obsessive/compulsive birdwatchers, was enough for me.  The fact that this trip would take me to a tropical island paradise during what is a lousy month where I live was just icing on the cake.

     Once I made my reservations, I started researching the birds of American Samoa to better prepare me when I saw something new through my binoculars.  I was surprised to first learn that there are, relatively speaking, few birds found within the land mass of American Samoa, much fewer than I had anticipated, given the island's lush, tropical habitat.

     Why is that?  Well, for starters, American Samoa is pretty far away from nearly everywhere, precluding a number of birds from colonizing the islands over time. Another reason is that despite its "wild" appearance, much of the island's tropical vegetation has been modified from human activity and from the introduction (whether by accident or on purpose) of non-native plants and animals.  These introduced species tend to modify native habitat or provide a heretofore unknown predator or competitor for which native species have no instinctual defense mechanism.  As a matter of fact, some of the most abundant birds on the island are introduced, like this Common Myna:



     On the other hand, seabirds are plentiful and numerous, but unfortunately, there were a number of species that were not present during my visit.  Shearwaters, petrels, storm-petrels, and several tern species missed the chance to get on my life list. Too bad for them, I say!

     No matter, there were enough birdwatching challenges to keep my visit exciting.  New birds were discovered nearly every day, and not always in the deep jungle or along the shoreline.  I looked for birds everywhere, and found at least two or three new "life birds" along the primary road circling Pago Pago Harbor and the harbor's largest city, Fagatogo.  I'm sure I was a curious sight for the average non-birdwatcher, or for any security personnel, with my binoculars glued to my eyes scanning the trees surrounding the Governor's Mansion.

     But I digress from the title of this essay. Yes, the chicken or the junglefowl, what came first?  I know you'll be relieved to find out that I'm NOT going to repeat any dumb chicken/road joke often provided by my brother (too many questions would be asked).  But what, exactly, is a junglefowl? Well, when I received my copy of Pratt, Bruner, and Berrett's "The Birds of Hawaii and the Tropical Pacific" (the field guide of choice for American Samoa), I was quite stunned to see that a species called "Junglefowl" was portrayed as a wild species worthy of bird identification.  Why? Well, see for yourself:



     Does it not look like your basic chicken? I mean, come on, I know there are not a lot of birds in American Samoa, but that's a CHICKEN.  Are they that hard up for birds? Could the science-based, obsessive/compulsive birder in me really, in good conscience, allow myself to add a chicken to my life list?  I honestly struggled with this, because I actually saw the dang thing deep within the jungle (as did Rick and Cyndi, my witnesses).  The "chickens" we saw, did in fact resemble the description of an "extremely secretive and elusive bird" generally found "distant from human habitation and other domesticated fowl."

     So what to do?  Add "Junglefowl" to my life list, knowing that it looks like your basic chicken, risking laughter and derision from my fellow esteemed birdwatchers?  Not add it, and miss out on the addition of one more bird to help grow my list?  Well, what helped me out with my eventual decision was meeting the island's top wildlife biologist, who solidly supported the literature which indicated that Junglefowl were indeed considered a wild species.

     That got me interested, then, in exactly what that meant. Were chicken-looking birds wild originally, and then later domesticated, destined to become the well-known nugget of children's lunches?  Or, alternatively, were these birds first developed through domestication, and then let loose to become feral chickens, and later become wild enough to be considered a wild species?  Really, what came first, the chicken or the Junglefowl?

     A U.S. National Park ranger, working in the National Park of American Samoa's visitor center, helped fill in this critical knowledge gap that was keeping me awake nights.  Junglefowl were indeed brought over by the original peoples who colonized the Samoan islands nearly 3,000 years ago.  Over time, this species became a natural part of the island's ecosystem, and it is now considered to be a wild bird. Not necessarily native, but indeed wild.

     Hmmph. That doesn't mean I got used to the fact that one of the most common jungle sounds here was the "cock-a-doodle-doo" of the Junglefowl.  Howling monkeys, screeching parrots, yes (well, not here in Samoa, but in your run-of-the-mill jungle anywhere else); cock-a-doodles, no.

     All in all, I identified 25 species on American Samoa, 17 of which were new birds for me, or "lifers." My complete list is at the end, along with a few pictures (may I digress here and note that all photographs in this blog entry are pictures I snapped from either Pratt et al.'s field guide or "Hawaii's Birds" by the Hawaii Audubon Society).

     The most abundant bird, the Common Myna, was mentioned and shown above. Alternatively, one of the most challenging of all sightings was the Purple-capped Fruit Dove, a bird finally spotted on my last day, zooming in the trees around the Governor's Mansion smack dab in the middle of downtown Fagatogo:




     The beautiful White-tailed Tropicbird, with its long, trailing tail feathers twice as long as its body, always lifted my spirits when it soared overhead:



     White, or Fairy, Terns fluttered joyously and effortlessly in the sky:



     The Samoan Starling was a special sighting, as it is American Samoa's only endemic species (found only on American Samoa and nowhere else in the world):



     You wouldn't think a pigeon would be hard to find, but the Pacific Pigeon was quite elusive in the beginning.  I caught one or two glimpses of a pigeon-like bird that would rocket through the forest, and just when I was going to give up ever getting a really good view and opportunity to observe it, a Pacific Pigeon flew into my binocular sights on my last day when I was "on safari" in downtown Fagatogo near the Governor's Mansion.  Thank you, Mr. Pigeon.  Pacific Pigeons are probably the most culturally important bird of American Samoa. Massive stone platforms, or "star mounds," built by ancient Samoans, were used in part for trapping this bird, which was used as a food source, a hunting challenge (I can attest to its difficulty in finding), and for other purposes.  In addition, it is the island's largest bird, and as such, is the only bird that can eat, and therefore spread, the larger seeds/fruits of some tropical native trees.

     I give you a picture of a Pacific Pigeon:



     The Cardinal Honeyeater, a brilliant red and black songbird in its adult male plumage, would stop by Rick's house nearly every day:


     Collared Kingfishers, often perched on powerlines or open tree limbs, would peer sternly at you as they hunted for insects. Most kingfishers around the world eat fish, but apparently not this species, it relies on insects:




     Seabirds were plentiful. Brown noddies, red-footed boobies, and greater and lesser frigatebirds filled the skies when we visited uninhabited rocky shorelines. Nesting blue-gray noddies showed up in one place, a lovely lunch spot on our hike around the island of Aunu'u. Below are images of Brown and Blue-gray Noddies:


     I must also mention the flying fox, in reality, a fruit bat. This species wins the Oscar for acting more like a bird than any other mammal. With a 3-foot wingspan and looking quite like a vulture, the flying fox was the common crow of the islands. Every time you looked up, you could almost be certain to see at least one large bat slowly flapping its wings as it casually flew by. Too bad I couldn't add it to my bird list.

     I missed a few birds, like the Many-colored Fruit Dove, the Long-tailed Cuckoo, and a few others.  While I'm a bit chagrined at that, I guess I could take the "glass is full" attitude and believe that this simply offers me a reason to come back again sometime (well, that and the pina coladas at Tisa's!).  I do hope that that "sometime" is soon.

     A great document on the natural resources of American Samoa, including a summary of its birds, is a PDF file easily found on the National Park of American Samoa's website (http://www.nps.gov/archive/npsa/book/index/htm). Wonderfully written, this engaging document offers a keen insight on the natural history of American Samoa.  I highly recommend it as an entertaining and quick read.

Birds of American Samoa (* indicates a life bird for me, [i] indicates an introduced species):

White-tailed Tropicbird*
White, or Fairy, Tern*
Blue-gray Noddy*
Brown Noddy
Lesser Frigatebird*
Greater Frigatebird
Brown Booby
Red-footed Booby
Pacific Reef Heron*
Wandering Tattler
Pacific Golden Plover
Samoan Starling*
Polynesian Starling*
White-rumped Swiftlet*
Purple Swamphen*
Banded Rail*
Pacific Pigeon*
Purple-capped Fruit Dove*
Wattled Honeyeater*
Cardinal Honeyeater*
Collared Kingfisher*
Jungle Myna*[i]
Common Myna [i]
Red-vented Bulbul [i]
Red Junglefowl*[i?]